Your Go-To FREE Crochet Poncho Pattern
Your Go-To FREE Crochet Poncho Pattern: The Cozy Granny Stripe Winifred Poncho
Today, I’m absolutely thrilled to unveil a design that has been a long time coming – the enchanting “Winifred Poncho”! Have you ever dreamt of that perfect, effortlessly chic, and incredibly cozy layering piece? I certainly have! One day, the thought struck me: why not crochet my very own? And just like that, the inspiration for this delightful crochet poncho pattern was born.
Crafted with a refreshingly simple structure and featuring my absolute favorite stitch – the versatile granny stripe – this poncho embodies the epitome of comfort and style. It’s truly the dream garment you’ll reach for again and again. So, without further ado, let’s dive into making your new favorite wardrobe staple!
Why This Crochet Poncho Pattern is a Must-Make
- Effortlessly Stylish: The classic granny stripe stitch gives this poncho a timeless appeal, perfect for any season.
- Ultimate Comfort: Drapes beautifully, offering warmth without bulk.
- Beginner-Friendly: While it looks intricate, the pattern uses basic stitches, making it accessible for those new to garment making.
- Versatile Wardrobe Addition: Ideal for layering over anything from a simple tee to a long-sleeved top.
- Customizable Length: Easily adjust the length to your preference, creating a truly unique piece.
Essential Materials for Your Winifred Poncho
Before we begin, gather your supplies. This pattern may contain affiliate links, meaning I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase.
- Yarn: Medium Weight (4) yarn.
- Yarn used for full multi-color poncho: [Link to Yarn A]
- Yarn used for Tester Poncho (pink, white, brown): [Link to Yarn B]
- Looking for more yarn options? Browse a wide selection for your next crochet patterns!
- Hook: 6.00mm Crochet Hook ([Specific Clover Hook Link])
- Scissors: Nice and sharp pair ([Recommended Scissors Link])
- Darning Needle: My absolute favorites, making seaming and weaving in ends a breeze thanks to their bent tip! ([Recommended Darning Needles Link])
- Stitch Markers: The best kind – they stay securely in place! ([Recommended Stitch Markers Link])
Stitches & Abbreviations You’ll Need
This crochet top pattern utilizes standard US crochet terms:
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- Ch = Chain
- Sl st = Slip Stitch
- Dc = Double Crochet
- Dc Cluster = Double Crochet Cluster (3 dc worked into the same ch/ch space)
- Dc Cluster Corner/Inc = Double Crochet Corner/Increase (dc cluster, ch 3, dc cluster ALL worked into the same ch/ch space)
- Rnd = Round
- Rep = Repeat
Important Pattern Notes for Your Crochet Poncho Pattern
- This pattern uses US crochet terms.
- Ch 3 ALWAYS counts as a stitch in this pattern.
- ALWAYS Ch 1 before moving onto the next dc cluster/ch space.
- Through the remainder of this pattern, you will be working in ch spaces and not in sts (with the exception of the slip stitch worked to join your round together).
Measurements & Sizing
- Gauge: 4″ x 4″ = 4 dc clusters wide by 6 dc cluster rows tall. Gauge made using the granny stripe stitch. For a visual guide, refer to this helpful video tutorial on the granny stripe stitch: Granny Stripe Stitch Tutorial
- Finished Size: The Winifred Poncho measures approximately 25 inches long from the neckline to the bottom point of the garment. However, feel free to work as many rows as you’d like to achieve your desired length!
- Sizing: This is a OSFM (one size fits most) pattern, realistically best fitting sizes XS-2XL. (Model is a size S/M).
The Winifred Poncho: Your FREE Crochet Poncho Pattern
Let’s get started on this beautiful crochet project!
Starting Chain
Ch 64 (it might not look like it at first, but this chain length should fit most every size, as long as your gauge is correct).
Rnd 1: Establishing Your Foundation
Sl st into the first ch of your chain (ensure it isn’t twisted). You will now be working in the round. Ch 3 (this ch 3 at the beginning of every round will ALWAYS count as the first st of the rnd throughout this pattern, and is always the first “dc” of your first dc cluster of the round). Work a dc cluster corner/inc into the first ch, *ch 1 (ALWAYS ch 1 before moving onto the next cluster),* sk 3 ch, work a dc cluster in the next ch, *rep 2 more times. Ch 1, Sk 3 ch, *work a dc cluster corner into the next ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, work a dc cluster in the next, ch 1, sk 3 ch, work a dc cluster in the next, ch 1, sk 3 ch, work a dc cluster in the next ch 1, sk 3 ch, *rep until the end of your ch and you have 4 dc cluster corners/increases and 12 standalone dc clusters. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Rnd 2: Continuing Your Poncho (Not Changing Colors)
Turn your work. Ch 3, dc 2, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster of the round.) *Make sure after every complete dc cluster/dc cluster corner, you ALWAYS ch 1 before moving onto the next ch space.* You will now be working in ch spaces and not in the chain itself. There are “edge” ch spaces (“edge” ch spaces are ch 1 spaces) and “corner” ch spaces (“corner ch spaces are ch 3 spaces). You will only work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” ch space you come across and will be working a dc cluster corner/inc into every “corner” ch space you come across (ALWAYS ch 1 before moving onto the next ch space). Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Rnd 2: Changing Colors (Optional)
Fasten off your yarn and grab your next color. Check out my YouTube tutorial here for this part to see how I work over my ends so you don’t have to weave them all in at the end of your project!
Turn your work. Insert your hook into the closest corner where you previously sl st into to join the rnd and pull through your new yarn color. Ch 3, work 2 dc in ch space, ch 3 and work 1 dc cluster into same ch space, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster corner/inc of the rnd). You will now be working in ch spaces and not in the chain itself. There are “edge” ch spaces (“edge” ch spaces are ch 1 spaces) and “corner” ch spaces (“corner ch spaces are ch 3 spaces). You will only work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” ch space you come across and will be working a dc cluster corner/inc into every “corner” ch space you come across (ALWAYS ch 1 before moving onto the next ch space). Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Rnds 3-6: Building Your Poncho (Not Changing Colors)
Turn your work. Ch 3, dc 2, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster of the round.) Work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” / ch 1 space and work a dc cluster corner/inc into every “corner” / ch 3 space. Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Rnds 3-6: Building Your Poncho (Changing Colors)
Fasten off your yarn and grab your next color. Turn your work. Insert your hook into the closest corner where you previously sl st into to join the rnd and pull through your new yarn color. Ch 3, work 2 dc in ch space, ch 3 and work 1 dc cluster into same ch space, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster corner/inc of the rnd). Work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” / ch 1 space and work a dc cluster corner/inc into every “corner” / ch 3 space. Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round. Fasten off your yarn and grab your next color.
Rnd 7: Shaping Your Poncho – Reducing Corners
(This part and the start of round 7 is irrelevant to you if you are not changing colors; you will be starting on a normal dc cluster and not a dc corner/inc.)
Turn your work. Insert your hook into the closest corner where you previously sl st into to join the rnd and pull through your new yarn color. Ch 3, work 2 dc in ch space, ch 3 and work 1 dc cluster into same ch space, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster corner/inc of the rnd).
A video tutorial is AVAILABLE HERE if you need better help visualizing this shaping process!
You will only be keeping/increasing 2 of the 4 corners you have. If you look at the picture shown above, there are “top” and “bottom” corners and “side” corners. You will ONLY be continuing to increase in the top & bottom corners and WILL NOT be increasing in the side corners. Instead, you will only work 1 dc cluster into those side corners when you come across them instead of the dc cluster corner/inc.
So, you’re going to continue the pattern as follows… Work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” / ch 1 space AND into the next corner you come across, DO NOT INCREASE (only adding 1 dc cluster), continue working only 1 dc cluster into every ch space until you come to the next corner (the corner directly across from/under the “top” corner). Work a dc cluster corner/inc into that “corner” / ch 3 space. Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Now there are no more “side corners” and only the top & bottom corner/points remain and will be the only ch spaces we will be increasing from here on out. Fasten off your yarn and grab your next color.
Rnds 8-28: Completing Your Crochet Poncho Pattern
Turn your work. Insert your hook into the closest corner where you previously sl st into to join the rnd and pull through your new yarn color. Ch 3, work 2 dc in ch space, ch 3 and work 1 dc cluster into same ch space, ch 1 (this is your first dc cluster corner/inc of the rnd). Work 1 dc cluster into every “edge” / ch 1 space and work a dc cluster corner/inc into every “corner” / ch 3 space. Continue working in every ch space until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
You are more than welcome to work more or less rounds for the desired length for your crochet top. These 28 rounds are simply how many I personally worked.
Finishing Your Winifred Crochet Poncho
After completing your desired number of rounds, weave in all your ends. Take your time with this step – a neat finish makes all the difference!
…YOU’RE DONE! 🎉
Share Your Winifred Poncho!
I absolutely adore seeing your finished creations! If you recreate the Winifred Poncho, please tag or DM @hayhaycrochet on Instagram so I can see, like, and share your beautiful work!
Happy Crocheting
