Michaels Skeleton Crochet Pattern: Free Alternative Ribcage Top

This guide is our own free, beginner-friendly version of that idea. It uses the same yarn, hook and foundation-stitch rib technique, but the pattern is written from scratch. It’s built from simple pieces: a sternum, two side strips, twelve ribs, two collarbones and a halter strap. Back ties make it adjustable, so the fit is forgiving. If you can chain, single crochet and double crochet, you can make it. New to crochet? Start with our [INTERNAL-LINK: beginner’s guide to basic crochet stitches → pillar page on basic stitches].

Key Takeaways

• The Michaels skeleton top is taught as a video class. This is a free, original pattern that uses the same materials and technique.
• You need one skein of white worsted (#4) acrylic, a 4.5 mm (G) hook, a tapestry needle and pins.
• Each rib is a single row of foundation double crochet (fdc), so there’s no starting chain to count and no rows to turn.
• Rib lengths are sized to your bust in four sizes (S–XL), and the back ties let you adjust the fit.
• Wear it over a black bralette or tank so the white “bones” stand out.

What Is the Michaels Skeleton Crochet Pattern?

It’s a Halloween ribcage top taught as an on-demand video class on the Michaels website. According to the class listing, it covers foundation double crochet and foundation treble crochet and uses Big Twist Value Yarn (100% acrylic, 380 yd / 347 m) with a Loops & Threads ergonomic aluminum G/4.5 mm hook (Michaels, retrieved 2026-09-18).

We haven’t reproduced the class instructions here. Those belong to Michaels and the instructor, and you can take the class on their site. This pattern follows the same idea in its own way: stitch the “bones” as separate strips, then sew them into a ribcage. If you’d rather make something that sits on a shelf, see our [INTERNAL-LINK: roundup of skeleton and skull crochet patterns → Halloween pattern collection].

What You’ll Need Before You Start

Everything below is sold at Michaels or any craft store. One 380 yd skein should cover every size. If you are making the XL, buy a second skein to be safe.

• Yarn: 1 skein white or cream worsted weight (#4) acrylic. Big Twist Value in White is the yarn the class uses.
• Hook: 4.5 mm (US G/6, sometimes labeled G/4.5 mm)
• Tapestry needle for sewing pieces together
• Straight pins or locking stitch markers (about 30)
• Scissors and a tape measure
• A black top to wear underneath, plus a piece of cardboard or a folded towel to pin onto
• Skill level: Advanced beginner. You should know chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc) and double crochet (dc). This pattern also teaches the foundation stitches and a simple decrease.
• Time: Expect a weekend, depending on your speed.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, insert hook in the following st, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops
• fsc – foundation single crochet
• fdc – foundation double crochet

Gauge

16 sts = 4 in (10 cm) in fdc and in sc rows. To check, work 16 fdc and measure. If your strip is longer than 4 in, go down a hook size. If it’s shorter, go up one. Gauge matters more here than in most beginner projects, because every rib length is based on it.

Step 1: Choose Your Size

By the end of this step, you’ll know your rib stitch counts. Measure around the fullest part of your bust and pick the size closest to it. The back ties absorb small differences, so if you’re between sizes, pick the smaller one for a snug fit or the larger for a relaxed one.

Numbers are fdc stitches per rib. Rib 1 sits at the top, just under the collarbones. You make two of each rib, one for the left and one for the right, so 12 ribs in total.

Here’s how the numbers work, in case you want to customize them. Start with the gap each rib has to cross: a quarter of your bust measurement, minus half the sternum (1.5 in) and one side strip (1 in). Ribs 3 and 4 are 1.5 in longer than that gap, ribs 2 and 5 are 1 in longer, and ribs 1 and 6 are 0.5 in longer. The extra length is what makes each rib curve, so the middle of the ribcage curves the most. At 4 stitches per inch, multiply any length by 4 to get the stitch count.

Step 2: Make the Sternum

By the end of this step, you’ll have the breastbone: a flat strip that ends in a point. It’s the anchor for all twelve ribs, so keep your edges straight.

1. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc)
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (12 sc)
4. Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures 6 (6½, 7, 7½) in / 15 (16.5, 18, 19) cm.
5. Taper row: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10 sc)
6. Repeat the taper row three more times, for 8, then 6, then 4 sc.
7. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail for sewing.

Check: The sternum should be about 3 in (7.5 cm) wide, with a short pointed tip at the bottom. The tip is the xiphoid process, the little point at the base of a real breastbone.

Step 3: Make Two Side Strips

By the end of this step, you’ll have two narrow strips that hold the outer ends of the ribs. They also carry the halter strap and the back ties.

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sc)
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (4 sc)
4. Repeat Row 2 until the strip measures 7 (7½, 8, 8½) in / 18 (19, 20, 21.5) cm. That’s the same as the full sternum including its tip.
5. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail. Make a second strip the same way.

Check: Both strips are the same length and about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.

Step 4: Crochet the 12 Ribs in Foundation Double Crochet

By the end of this step, you’ll have twelve rib strips, a matched pair for each of the six rib positions. Foundation double crochet builds the chain and the double crochet row at the same time. You get a strip that’s flat, stretchy and one stitch tall, with no long starting chain to lose count on.

How to work fdc:

1. Ch 3. Yarn over, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
2. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop. This makes the “chain” at the base of the stitch.
3. (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice. That’s your first fdc.
4. For the next fdc: yarn over, insert your hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” you made at the base of the previous stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat steps 2–3.

If the stitch doesn’t make sense at first, this slow video tutorial walks through it:https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/PCNcKEBr790

Make the ribs: For each rib, work the number of fdc for your size from the Step 1 table. Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail at both ends. Weave the starting tail through to that end if needed. Make two of every rib.

Tip: As you finish each rib, clip a stitch marker to it labeled 1–6, or tie on a scrap of colored yarn. Ribs that differ by two stitches look almost identical once they’re in a pile.

Check: Rib 3 for size M (32 fdc) should measure about 8 in (20 cm). If it’s much longer, your gauge is loose. Every rib will be long by the same amount, so re-check gauge before you finish all twelve.

Step 5: Make the Collarbones and Halter Strap

By the end of this step, you’ll have the pieces that hold the top up: two short collarbones and one long strap that goes around your neck.

Collarbones (make 2): Work 22 (26, 30, 34) fdc, about 5½ (6½, 7½, 8½) in / 14 (16.5, 19, 21.5) cm. Fasten off, leaving 8 in (20 cm) tails at both ends. You will check the length against your pinned frame in Step 6 and can add or pull out a few stitches then.

Halter strap (make 1): Work foundation single crochet (fsc) until the strap measures 22 (24, 26, 28) in / 56 (61, 66, 71) cm. Before you fasten off, drape it around your neck and hold both ends at the top of your ribcage, about where the side strips will sit. Add or take out stitches until it feels right. Fasten off with 12 in (30 cm) tails.

How to work fsc: Ch 2. Insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 1 loop to make the “chain”, then yarn over and pull through both loops. For the next fsc, insert your hook under the 2 loops of that “chain” and repeat. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: foundation single crochet tutorial → fsc stitch guide] has photos of each step.

Step 6: Pin and Sew the Ribcage

By the end of this step, the pieces will be one ribcage. Pin everything before you sew anything. This is the step where rushing shows. Assembly diagram for the crochet skeleton ribcage top Front view. A pointed sternum sits at the center. A side strip sits on each side, starting about one inch lower than the top of the sternum. Six curved ribs per side connect the sternum to the side strips. Two collarbones run from the top corners of the sternum to a halter strap that loops behind the neck, and four chain ties extend from the tops and bottoms of the side strips to tie at the back. Sternum Side strip Side strip Halter strap (around neck) Collarbone Collarbone Tie Tie Tie Tie Rib 1 Rib 6 Side strips start about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top of the sternum, so the ribs slope down toward the sides. Assembly diagram, front view. Original illustration for this pattern, not to scale.

1. Lay out the frame. Pin the sternum to the center of your cardboard with the point at the bottom. Pin a side strip on each side, about 5½ (6½, 7½, 8½) in / 14 (16.5, 19, 21.5) cm from the sternum’s edge. Set the top of each side strip about 1 in (2.5 cm) lower than the top of the sternum.
2. Place the ribs. On the sternum, rib 1 goes at the top and rib 6 just above where the taper starts. On the side strips, rib 1 goes at the very top and rib 6 about 1½ in (4 cm) above the bottom end. Space the rest evenly, about ½–1 in (1.5–2.5 cm) apart depending on size. Each rib is longer than the gap it spans, so let it curve downward. The middle ribs will curve the most, and that’s what makes it look like a ribcage.
3. Sew the ribs. Use the tail at each end to whipstitch the short end of the rib to the edge of the sternum or side strip. Go through both layers three or four times so the joint is firm, then weave the tail in.
4. Add the collarbones. Sew one end of each collarbone to a top corner of the sternum. Angle it up and out toward the shoulder, and check that it reaches the line where the halter will run. If it does not, add a few fdc.
5. Attach the halter. Sew each end of the halter strap to the top of a side strip. Then sew the free end of each collarbone onto the halter strap where it naturally meets it, about a third of the way up.

Check: Unpin the top and hold it up by the halter. The ribs should hang in smooth curves, with none twisted or pulled flat.

Step 7: Add the Back Ties and Finish

By the end of this step, you’ll have a wearable top. The four ties cross your back, so the top works over a range of sizes.

1. Join yarn with a sl st at the outer top corner of one side strip.
2. Ch until the chain measures 16 (18, 20, 22) in / 40 (46, 51, 56) cm.
3. Sl st into the back bump (the little bar on the back of each chain) of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch back to the side strip. This makes the tie sturdier and stops it from curling. Fasten off.
4. Repeat at the bottom corner of the same strip, then at the top and bottom corners of the other strip. That’s 4 ties.
5. Tie an overhand knot near the end of each tie and weave in all remaining ends.

To wear it, slip the halter over your head, then tie the top pair and the bottom pair behind your back. If you’d like a spine too, make a 4-stitch-wide sc strip as long as your side strips and sew it across the back ties. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: guide to blocking acrylic yarn → blocking tutorial] explains how to steam-block the ribs flat if they curl. Acrylic relaxes with gentle steam, and that fixes most curling.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most problems with this top come from rib length or rushed assembly, and all of them are easy to fix.

1. Skipping the gauge swatch. An fdc strip can easily be half an inch longer or shorter per 16 stitches, and that difference repeats across all 12 ribs. Measure one finished rib before you make the rest.

2. Mixing up rib pairs. Ribs that differ by two stitches look the same in a pile. Label each rib as you finish it, and lay the pairs out side by side before you sew.

3. Pulling ribs straight. If you stretch a rib flat between the sternum and the side strip, you lose the curve that makes it look like bone. Pin the ends first, then let the middle hang.

4. Weak joints. One pass of the needle at each rib end won’t hold up to a night of wear. Go through three or four times and weave the tail back through the rib.

5. Wearing it alone. The open spaces between ribs are the whole point, so plan on a black layer underneath. Black makes the white yarn stand out best.

What Your Finished Top Should Look Like

You should have a white ribcage with six curved ribs on each side, meeting at a pointed sternum. Two collarbones should lead up to a halter strap, and four ties should knot at the back. From a few steps away, over a black top, it should read clearly as a skeleton.

Want to take it further? Add a matching skeleton hand appliqué to a bag, or work the ribs in glow-in-the-dark yarn for night parties. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: crochet skeleton hand appliqué pattern → hand appliqué tutorial] uses the same fsc and fdc stitches, so it’s a natural next project. For more ideas, browse our [INTERNAL-LINK: free Halloween crochet patterns → Halloween category page].

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Michaels skeleton crochet pattern free?

The Michaels version is taught as an on-demand video class on michaels.com, so check the class page for current pricing. The pattern on this page is free and original. It uses the same yarn, hook and foundation-stitch technique.

What yarn does the Michaels skeleton top use?

The class listing names Big Twist Value Yarn, a 100% acrylic worsted weight with 380 yd / 347 m per skein, and a G/4.5 mm hook (Michaels, retrieved 2026-09-18). Any white worsted (#4) acrylic that meets gauge will work for this pattern.

Can a beginner make a crochet skeleton top?

Yes, if you already know chain, single crochet and double crochet. The new stitches are foundation single and double crochet and a simple decrease (sc2tog), and each one is explained in the steps. Every piece is a flat strip. Most of the challenge is in the assembly, and pinning before you sew makes that manageable.

How long does it take?

Most beginners can finish it over a weekend. The twelve ribs take the longest, and pinning and sewing is the next biggest job.

Conclusion

• The Michaels skeleton crochet pattern is a ribcage top taught as a class. This page gives you a free, original way to make a similar top.
• Check gauge first, because every rib length depends on it.
• Make 12 fdc ribs in pairs, label them, and pin the whole ribcage before sewing.
• The back ties do the fitting for you, so small sizing differences don’t matter.

Made one? We’d love to see it. Tag us or share a photo in the comments below. Then keep the Halloween hooks busy with our [INTERNAL-LINK: easy crochet pumpkin pattern → next seasonal project].

If you searched for the Michaels skeleton crochet pattern, you’re probably after the ribcage crop top from the Michaels on-demand Crochet Skeleton Top class. That class builds its ribs from foundation double crochet and foundation treble crochet, using Big Twist Value yarn and a 4.5 mm (G) hook (Michaels class listing, retrieved 2026-09-18).

This guide is our own free, beginner-friendly version of that idea. It uses the same yarn, hook and foundation-stitch rib technique, but the pattern is written from scratch. It’s built from simple pieces: a sternum, two side strips, twelve ribs, two collarbones and a halter strap. Back ties make it adjustable, so the fit is forgiving. If you can chain, single crochet and double crochet, you can make it. New to crochet? Start with our beginner’s guide to basic crochet stitches → pillar page on basic stitches.

Key Takeaways

• The Michaels skeleton top is taught as a video class. This is a free, original pattern that uses the same materials and technique.
• You need one skein of white worsted (#4) acrylic, a 4.5 mm (G) hook, a tapestry needle and pins.
• Each rib is a single row of foundation double crochet (fdc), so there’s no starting chain to count and no rows to turn.
• Rib lengths are sized to your bust in four sizes (S–XL), and the back ties let you adjust the fit.
• Wear it over a black bralette or tank so the white “bones” stand out.

What Is the Michaels Skeleton Crochet Pattern?

It’s a Halloween ribcage top taught as an on-demand video class on the Michaels website. According to the class listing, it covers foundation double crochet and foundation treble crochet and uses Big Twist Value Yarn (100% acrylic, 380 yd / 347 m) with a Loops & Threads ergonomic aluminum G/4.5 mm hook (Michaels, retrieved 2026-09-18).

We haven’t reproduced the class instructions here. Those belong to Michaels and the instructor, and you can take the class on their site. This pattern follows the same idea in its own way: stitch the “bones” as separate strips, then sew them into a ribcage. If you’d rather make something that sits on a shelf, see our [INTERNAL-LINK: roundup of skeleton and skull crochet patterns → Halloween pattern collection].

What You’ll Need Before You Start

Everything below is sold at Michaels or any craft store. One 380 yd skein should cover every size. If you are making the XL, buy a second skein to be safe.

• Yarn: 1 skein white or cream worsted weight (#4) acrylic. Big Twist Value in White is the yarn the class uses.
• Hook: 4.5 mm (US G/6, sometimes labeled G/4.5 mm)
• Tapestry needle for sewing pieces together
• Straight pins or locking stitch markers (about 30)
• Scissors and a tape measure
• A black top to wear underneath, plus a piece of cardboard or a folded towel to pin onto
• Skill level: Advanced beginner. You should know chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc) and double crochet (dc). This pattern also teaches the foundation stitches and a simple decrease.
• Time: Expect a weekend, depending on your speed.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease): insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, insert hook in the following st, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops
• fsc – foundation single crochet
• fdc – foundation double crochet

Gauge

16 sts = 4 in (10 cm) in fdc and in sc rows. To check, work 16 fdc and measure. If your strip is longer than 4 in, go down a hook size. If it’s shorter, go up one. Gauge matters more here than in most beginner projects, because every rib length is based on it.

Step 1: Choose Your Size

By the end of this step, you’ll know your rib stitch counts. Measure around the fullest part of your bust and pick the size closest to it. The back ties absorb small differences, so if you’re between sizes, pick the smaller one for a snug fit or the larger for a relaxed one.

Numbers are fdc stitches per rib. Rib 1 sits at the top, just under the collarbones. You make two of each rib, one for the left and one for the right, so 12 ribs in total.

Here’s how the numbers work, in case you want to customize them. Start with the gap each rib has to cross: a quarter of your bust measurement, minus half the sternum (1.5 in) and one side strip (1 in). Ribs 3 and 4 are 1.5 in longer than that gap, ribs 2 and 5 are 1 in longer, and ribs 1 and 6 are 0.5 in longer. The extra length is what makes each rib curve, so the middle of the ribcage curves the most. At 4 stitches per inch, multiply any length by 4 to get the stitch count.

Step 2: Make the Sternum

By the end of this step, you’ll have the breastbone: a flat strip that ends in a point. It’s the anchor for all twelve ribs, so keep your edges straight.

1. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc)
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (12 sc)
4. Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures 6 (6½, 7, 7½) in / 15 (16.5, 18, 19) cm.
5. Taper row: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10 sc)
6. Repeat the taper row three more times, for 8, then 6, then 4 sc.
7. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail for sewing.

Check: The sternum should be about 3 in (7.5 cm) wide, with a short pointed tip at the bottom. The tip is the xiphoid process, the little point at the base of a real breastbone.

Step 3: Make Two Side Strips

By the end of this step, you’ll have two narrow strips that hold the outer ends of the ribs. They also carry the halter strap and the back ties.

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sc)
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (4 sc)
4. Repeat Row 2 until the strip measures 7 (7½, 8, 8½) in / 18 (19, 20, 21.5) cm. That’s the same as the full sternum including its tip.
5. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail. Make a second strip the same way.

Check: Both strips are the same length and about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.

Step 4: Crochet the 12 Ribs in Foundation Double Crochet

By the end of this step, you’ll have twelve rib strips, a matched pair for each of the six rib positions. Foundation double crochet builds the chain and the double crochet row at the same time. You get a strip that’s flat, stretchy and one stitch tall, with no long starting chain to lose count on.

How to work fdc:

1. Ch 3. Yarn over, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
2. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop. This makes the “chain” at the base of the stitch.
3. (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice. That’s your first fdc.
4. For the next fdc: yarn over, insert your hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” you made at the base of the previous stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat steps 2–3.

If the stitch doesn’t make sense at first, this slow video tutorial walks through it:https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/PCNcKEBr790

Make the ribs: For each rib, work the number of fdc for your size from the Step 1 table. Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail at both ends. Weave the starting tail through to that end if needed. Make two of every rib.

Tip: As you finish each rib, clip a stitch marker to it labeled 1–6, or tie on a scrap of colored yarn. Ribs that differ by two stitches look almost identical once they’re in a pile.

Check: Rib 3 for size M (32 fdc) should measure about 8 in (20 cm). If it’s much longer, your gauge is loose. Every rib will be long by the same amount, so re-check gauge before you finish all twelve.

Step 5: Make the Collarbones and Halter Strap

By the end of this step, you’ll have the pieces that hold the top up: two short collarbones and one long strap that goes around your neck.

Collarbones (make 2): Work 22 (26, 30, 34) fdc, about 5½ (6½, 7½, 8½) in / 14 (16.5, 19, 21.5) cm. Fasten off, leaving 8 in (20 cm) tails at both ends. You will check the length against your pinned frame in Step 6 and can add or pull out a few stitches then.

Halter strap (make 1): Work foundation single crochet (fsc) until the strap measures 22 (24, 26, 28) in / 56 (61, 66, 71) cm. Before you fasten off, drape it around your neck and hold both ends at the top of your ribcage, about where the side strips will sit. Add or take out stitches until it feels right. Fasten off with 12 in (30 cm) tails.

How to work fsc: Ch 2. Insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 1 loop to make the “chain”, then yarn over and pull through both loops. For the next fsc, insert your hook under the 2 loops of that “chain” and repeat. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: foundation single crochet tutorial → fsc stitch guide] has photos of each step.

Step 6: Pin and Sew the Ribcage

By the end of this step, the pieces will be one ribcage. Pin everything before you sew anything. This is the step where rushing shows. Assembly diagram for the crochet skeleton ribcage top Front view. A pointed sternum sits at the center. A side strip sits on each side, starting about one inch lower than the top of the sternum. Six curved ribs per side connect the sternum to the side strips. Two collarbones run from the top corners of the sternum to a halter strap that loops behind the neck, and four chain ties extend from the tops and bottoms of the side strips to tie at the back. Sternum Side strip Side strip Halter strap (around neck) Collarbone Collarbone Tie Tie Tie Tie Rib 1 Rib 6 Side strips start about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top of the sternum, so the ribs slope down toward the sides. Assembly diagram, front view. Original illustration for this pattern, not to scale.

1. Lay out the frame. Pin the sternum to the center of your cardboard with the point at the bottom. Pin a side strip on each side, about 5½ (6½, 7½, 8½) in / 14 (16.5, 19, 21.5) cm from the sternum’s edge. Set the top of each side strip about 1 in (2.5 cm) lower than the top of the sternum.
2. Place the ribs. On the sternum, rib 1 goes at the top and rib 6 just above where the taper starts. On the side strips, rib 1 goes at the very top and rib 6 about 1½ in (4 cm) above the bottom end. Space the rest evenly, about ½–1 in (1.5–2.5 cm) apart depending on size. Each rib is longer than the gap it spans, so let it curve downward. The middle ribs will curve the most, and that’s what makes it look like a ribcage.
3. Sew the ribs. Use the tail at each end to whipstitch the short end of the rib to the edge of the sternum or side strip. Go through both layers three or four times so the joint is firm, then weave the tail in.
4. Add the collarbones. Sew one end of each collarbone to a top corner of the sternum. Angle it up and out toward the shoulder, and check that it reaches the line where the halter will run. If it does not, add a few fdc.
5. Attach the halter. Sew each end of the halter strap to the top of a side strip. Then sew the free end of each collarbone onto the halter strap where it naturally meets it, about a third of the way up.

Check: Unpin the top and hold it up by the halter. The ribs should hang in smooth curves, with none twisted or pulled flat.

Step 7: Add the Back Ties and Finish

By the end of this step, you’ll have a wearable top. The four ties cross your back, so the top works over a range of sizes.

1. Join yarn with a sl st at the outer top corner of one side strip.
2. Ch until the chain measures 16 (18, 20, 22) in / 40 (46, 51, 56) cm.
3. Sl st into the back bump (the little bar on the back of each chain) of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch back to the side strip. This makes the tie sturdier and stops it from curling. Fasten off.
4. Repeat at the bottom corner of the same strip, then at the top and bottom corners of the other strip. That’s 4 ties.
5. Tie an overhand knot near the end of each tie and weave in all remaining ends.

To wear it, slip the halter over your head, then tie the top pair and the bottom pair behind your back. If you’d like a spine too, make a 4-stitch-wide sc strip as long as your side strips and sew it across the back ties. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: guide to blocking acrylic yarn → blocking tutorial] explains how to steam-block the ribs flat if they curl. Acrylic relaxes with gentle steam, and that fixes most curling.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most problems with this top come from rib length or rushed assembly, and all of them are easy to fix.

1. Skipping the gauge swatch. An fdc strip can easily be half an inch longer or shorter per 16 stitches, and that difference repeats across all 12 ribs. Measure one finished rib before you make the rest.

2. Mixing up rib pairs. Ribs that differ by two stitches look the same in a pile. Label each rib as you finish it, and lay the pairs out side by side before you sew.

3. Pulling ribs straight. If you stretch a rib flat between the sternum and the side strip, you lose the curve that makes it look like bone. Pin the ends first, then let the middle hang.

4. Weak joints. One pass of the needle at each rib end won’t hold up to a night of wear. Go through three or four times and weave the tail back through the rib.

5. Wearing it alone. The open spaces between ribs are the whole point, so plan on a black layer underneath. Black makes the white yarn stand out best.

What Your Finished Top Should Look Like

You should have a white ribcage with six curved ribs on each side, meeting at a pointed sternum. Two collarbones should lead up to a halter strap, and four ties should knot at the back. From a few steps away, over a black top, it should read clearly as a skeleton.

Want to take it further? Add a matching skeleton hand appliqué to a bag, or work the ribs in glow-in-the-dark yarn for night parties. Our [INTERNAL-LINK: crochet skeleton hand appliqué pattern → hand appliqué tutorial] uses the same fsc and fdc stitches, so it’s a natural next project. For more ideas, browse our [INTERNAL-LINK: free Halloween crochet patterns → Halloween category page].

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Michaels skeleton crochet pattern free?

The Michaels version is taught as an on-demand video class on michaels.com, so check the class page for current pricing. The pattern on this page is free and original. It uses the same yarn, hook and foundation-stitch technique.

What yarn does the Michaels skeleton top use?

The class listing names Big Twist Value Yarn, a 100% acrylic worsted weight with 380 yd / 347 m per skein, and a G/4.5 mm hook (Michaels, retrieved 2026-09-18). Any white worsted (#4) acrylic that meets gauge will work for this pattern.

Can a beginner make a crochet skeleton top?

Yes, if you already know chain, single crochet and double crochet. The new stitches are foundation single and double crochet and a simple decrease (sc2tog), and each one is explained in the steps. Every piece is a flat strip. Most of the challenge is in the assembly, and pinning before you sew makes that manageable.

How long does it take?

Most beginners can finish it over a weekend. The twelve ribs take the longest, and pinning and sewing is the next biggest job.

Conclusion

• The Michaels skeleton crochet pattern is a ribcage top taught as a class. This page gives you a free, original way to make a similar top.
• Check gauge first, because every rib length depends on it.
• Make 12 fdc ribs in pairs, label them, and pin the whole ribcage before sewing.
• The back ties do the fitting for you, so small sizing differences don’t matter.

Made one? We’d love to see it. Tag us or share a photo in the comments below. Then keep the Halloween hooks busy with our easy crochet pumpkin pattern → next seasonal project].