Quality Review: Hungry Caterpillar Crochet Pattern: Free Step-by-Step Amigurumi

This free hungry caterpillar crochet pattern makes a cheerful, storybook-inspired amigurumi: a tall red head, six green body segments in three shades, purple antennae, yellow-ringed eyes and ten little brown feet. You’ll work every piece in simple single crochet rounds with worsted-weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook, and the finished caterpillar measures about 9–10 inches (23–25 cm) long.

Even the eyes are crocheted, so there are no plastic parts to work loose, which is a real plus if you’re making it for a little one. The pieces are small, repetitive and forgiving, so this is a friendly first toy. When you finish, our free amigurumi patterns have plenty more beginner projects to try.

The design is a tribute to Eric Carle’s picture book The Very Hungry Caterpillar, first published in 1969. The Associated Press reported in 2021 that it had sold some 40 million copies in 60 languages. In the official Eric Carle FAQ, Carle explains that he cut the caterpillar’s head from red tissue paper and its body from green tissue-paper ovals. This pattern turns that same simple idea into yarn.

Jump to: Materials · Abbreviations · Head · Face · Body · Antennae and feet · Assembly · FAQ

What You Need to Crochet a Hungry Caterpillar

You need small amounts of worsted-weight yarn in seven colors, a 3.5 mm hook and a bag of fiberfill. Each color only goes into a few pieces, so this is a great way to use up leftover yarn.

• Yarn: worsted weight (#4 medium), cotton or acrylic, in red, light green, medium green, dark green, yellow, purple and brown
• Hook: 3.5 mm (US E-4)
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Tapestry needle with an eye large enough for worsted yarn
• Stitch marker (a scrap of contrasting yarn works)
• Scissors and a few straight pins for placing the face and feet

That hook is smaller than your yarn label suggests, on purpose. The Craft Yarn Council’s standard yarn weight system recommends 5.5–6.5 mm hooks for worsted yarn. Stuffed toys need a denser fabric, so dropping to 3.5 mm (listed as US E-4 on the council’s hook size chart) keeps the fiberfill from peeking through. If tight stitches make your hand ache, our guide to the best crochet hooks compares comfortable handles for amigurumi.

If you’re buying yarn, a 50 g (1.75 oz) ball of each color is more than enough. The three greens together use about 62% of the stitches, so choose those shades first and pick a red that stands out against them.

Abbreviations and Pattern Notes (US Terms)

This pattern uses US terms and the same abbreviations as the Craft Yarn Council’s standard crochet abbreviations, plus MR for the magic ring. Crocheting in UK terms? A US single crochet (sc) is a UK double crochet (dc).

• MR: magic ring, also called an adjustable ring (here’s our magic ring tutorial)
• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease. Insert your hook through the front loops only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, then yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on your hook. Our invisible decrease guide shows it step by step.
• sl st: slip stitch
• ch: chain
• hdc / dc: half double crochet / double crochet (bonus leaf only)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• Rnd: round
• FO: fasten off
• (sc, inc) ×6: repeat the steps inside the parentheses 6 times
• (24): the number of stitches you should have at the end of the round

Before you start:

1. Work in continuous spiral rounds. Don’t join rounds with a slip stitch; move your marker up at the start of each round instead.
2. Count your stitches at the end of every round and compare with the number in parentheses.
3. Leave a 12 in (30 cm) tail when you fasten off the segments, antennae, feet, eyes and nose. You’ll sew with it.
4. To close a piece, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight and weave the end in.
5. Stuff firmly as you go and top up just before each piece closes. Firm pieces hold their shape and are easier to sew.

New to patterns written in rounds? This walkthrough on how to read a crochet pattern explains the notation line by line. If the magic ring is new to you, this short video from amigurumi designer PlanetJune shows it up close:

Step 1: Crochet the Red Head

By the end of this step, you’ll have a tall red oval, still open at the bottom and ready for its face. The head is worked from the top down. The seven plain rounds in the middle (Rnds 6–12) make it taller than it is wide, which gives the caterpillar its storybook proportions and leaves room for big eyes.

With red:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• Rnd 2: inc ×6 (12)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
• Rnds 6–12: sc in each st around (30), 7 rounds
• Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
• Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)

Stop after Rnd 14 and don’t fasten off. Slip a locking stitch marker or safety pin into your working loop so it can’t unravel while you make the face.

Check: you should have 18 stitches and a cup shape roughly 2 in (5 cm) across. If your count is off, the usual culprit is a missed increase in Rnds 2–5. Rip back and redo that round rather than fudging it later.

Step 2: Make the Eyes and Nose, Then Close the Head

By the end of this step, your caterpillar will have its face, and the head will be stuffed and closed. You’ll attach the face now because the opening at the bottom lets you hide every knot inside.

Eyes (make 2)

• Rnd 1 (dark green): 6 sc in MR (6). Change to yellow in the last stitch.
• Rnd 2 (yellow): inc ×6 (12)
• Sl st in the next st. FO and leave a long yellow tail. Weave the green tail to the back.

The two-color circle gives you a green center inside a yellow ring, all in yarn.

Nose (make 1)

• Rnd 1 (dark green): 6 sc in MR (6). Sl st in the first sc. FO and leave a tail.

Real caterpillars don’t have noses, but in his FAQ Carle says he thinks of his caterpillar as having one. This tiny circle is a small nod to the book.

Attach the Face and Finish the Head

1. Pick the face side: choose the side opposite your start-of-round line, which can look slightly slanted.
2. Pin the eyes side by side between Rnds 6 and 10, almost touching.
3. Pin the nose centered just below the eyes, around Rnd 11.
4. Step back and check the expression, then sew each piece around its edge with its tail. Knot the ends inside the head.
5. Stuff the head firmly.
6. Put your working loop back on the hook and finish. Rnd 15: (sc, dec) ×6 (12). Rnd 16: dec ×6 (6). FO and close the hole.

Check: the eyes should sit a little above the head’s widest point, and the head should feel firm without the stitches stretching open.

Step 3: Crochet Six Body Segments in Three Greens

By the end of this step, you’ll have five large, slightly squashed balls and one smaller tail ball. Counting back from the head, make them medium green, light green, dark green, medium green, light green, and finish with a small dark green tail. Alternating the shades makes each segment stand out from its neighbor.

Large Segment (make 5)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• Rnd 2: inc ×6 (12)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
• Rnds 5–7: sc in each st around (24), 3 rounds
• Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
• Rnd 9: (sc, dec) ×6 (12). Stuff firmly.
• Rnd 10: dec ×6 (6). FO, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail, and close.

Tail Segment (make 1, dark green)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• Rnd 2: inc ×6 (12)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
• Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around (18), 2 rounds
• Rnd 6: (sc, dec) ×6 (12). Stuff firmly.
• Rnd 7: dec ×6 (6). FO, leaving a tail, and close.

The chart shows where the caterpillar’s shape comes from. All three pieces start the same way, but the head holds 30 stitches for seven rounds, which makes a tall oval. Each large segment holds 24 stitches for just three rounds, so it comes out wider than it is long. Sewn end to end, the segments look like plump, overlapping sections instead of a string of beads.

Every piece closes with decreases, so a smooth invisible decrease makes a visible difference. Here’s PlanetJune’s close-up demonstration:

Check: each large segment should be about 1.5 in (4 cm) across and spring back when you press it.

Step 4: Make the Antennae and Feet

By the end of this step, you’ll have two purple antennae and ten brown feet. These tiny pieces go quickly. Leave every tail long, because you’ll sew with them.

Antennae (make 2, purple)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6)
• Rnd 3: (sc, dec) ×2 (4)
• Rnds 4–7: sc in each st around (4), 4 rounds
• FO, leaving a tail. No stuffing needed; the rounded tip holds its shape.

Feet (make 10, brown)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6)
• FO, leaving a tail. Don’t stuff.

Tip: tiny tubes like to roll inside out. After Rnd 2, check that the right side of your stitches faces outward, and push the tip through if it doesn’t.

Step 5: Assemble Your Hungry Caterpillar

Sew the antennae to the head first, then join the head and segments in a straight line from head to tail, and add the feet last. The diagram shows every placement.

Every body join uses the same method. Hold the two pieces so they touch in a circle about the size of Rnd 3 (18 stitches, roughly 1 in or 2.5 cm across). Whip stitch around that circle through the outside loops of both pieces, then go around a second time. That second pass is what stops the body from sagging.

1. Antennae: pin them to the top of the head on Rnd 3, 4–5 stitches apart and just above the face. Sew around each base twice.
2. Head and Segment 1: sew the magic-ring end of Segment 1 to the back of the head, centered on about Rnd 11, so the bottom of the segment lines up with the bottom of the head.
3. Segments 2 to 6: sew the magic-ring end of each segment to the closed end of the one before it. Look down from above after each join to keep the body straight.
4. Feet: sew two feet to the underside of each large segment, across Rnds 5–7 and about 4 stitches apart. The tail segment doesn’t get feet.
5. Finish: hide each yarn end by bringing the needle out far from the join, pulling gently and snipping close to the surface.

Want a wiggle instead of a straight line? Offset a few joins two or three stitches up or down from center. Pin the whole body together before sewing so you can see the curve first.

Check: stand the caterpillar on a table. All ten feet should touch down, and a gentle tug on any piece shouldn’t move it.

Bonus: Crochet a Nibbled Leaf and a Snack Menu

In the book, the caterpillar ends its big week of eating with a single green leaf. This quick leaf has a bite taken out of one side, and it makes a sweet story-time prop.

Nibbled Leaf (medium green)

• Ch 10.
• Side 1: starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st, sc, hdc, dc in each of the next 3 ch, hdc, sc. In the last ch, work (sl st, ch 2, sl st) for the tip.
• Side 2 (the bite): working along the other side of the foundation chain, sc, hdc, sl st in each of the next 3 ch, hdc, sc, sl st in the last ch.
• Stem: ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 2 ch. FO and weave in the ends.

The three slip stitches on Side 2 sit much lower than the double crochets across from them, which leaves a neat, bite-shaped dip.

Kids love feeding the caterpillar its snacks, and you can crochet a play menu from free patterns already on Crochetto:

• Thursday’s strawberries: this easy crochet fruit tutorial makes a berry-shaped fruit with leaves.
• Saturday’s watermelon: our watermelon amigurumi pattern.
• Saturday’s cupcake: a mini cupcake amigurumi.
• Saturday’s ice-cream cone: the ice cream charm amigurumi.

Is This Crochet Caterpillar Safe for Babies and Toddlers?

The pattern is designed with little ones in mind: the eyes and nose are yarn, not plastic. Still, no handmade toy is automatically safe, so take extra care if the caterpillar is going to a child under 3.

In the United States, the Consumer Product Safety Commission’s small parts ban covers toys intended for children under 3. It defines a small part as anything that fits entirely inside a test cylinder sized to approximate a young child’s throat (16 CFR part 1501). A detached safety eye can fail that test, which is why this pattern uses crocheted eyes.

• Skip safety eyes, buttons, beads and bells on toys for babies and toddlers.
• Don’t add wire or pipe cleaners to pose the body.
• Stuff with polyester fiberfill rather than plastic pellets.
• Sew every part twice around and give each one a firm tug when you finish.
• Check the seams before playtime and repair loose stitches right away.

Troubleshooting: 5 Common Problems and Fixes

Most caterpillar problems come down to tension, stitch counts or joins. Here’s how to fix the usual suspects.

• Stuffing shows between stitches. Your fabric is too loose. Try a 3.25 mm (US D-3) hook, or hold the yarn a little tighter as you work.
• Your stitch count keeps drifting. Move the marker every round and count before you start the next one. Most errors are a missed increase in the first five rounds.
• Decreases leave holes or bumps. Work the invisible decrease through the front loops only, and pull each one snug.
• The body droops between segments. The joins are too small or the pieces are too soft. Stuff more firmly, and sew around a circle the size of Rnd 3, twice.
• The eyes look uneven. Pin both eyes before sewing, count stitches out from the center of the face on each side, and check the face from across the room.

Hungry Caterpillar Crochet Pattern FAQ

What yarn is best for a crochet caterpillar?

Worsted-weight cotton gives crisp, well-defined stitches and washes well. Acrylic is softer and usually cheaper. Either works, as long as you use the same weight of yarn for every piece so the parts stay in proportion.

Can I make the caterpillar bigger or smaller?

Yes. Keep the stitch counts the same and change the yarn and hook together. DK yarn with a 3 mm hook makes a smaller caterpillar, and bulky yarn with a 5 mm (US H-8) hook makes a bigger one. For more ways to scale a design, see our guide to making a crochet pattern bigger.

Can I use safety eyes instead of crocheted eyes?

Only for children over 3 or for display pieces. Work both rounds of each eye in yellow, push a 9 mm safety eye through its center and into the head at about Rnd 8, and snap the washer on from the inside before you stuff and close the head.

Can I sell the caterpillars I make from this pattern?

Please don’t. Eric Carle’s work and name are protected by copyright and trademark, and the Eric Carle Studio’s permission guidelines limit crafts based on it to personal and educational use. Gifts for family and friends, or a caterpillar for your own classroom, are the way to go.

How long does this pattern take?

It depends on your speed, but you can plan around the numbers: about 1,500 single crochet stitches plus assembly. The small pieces and the sewing take longer than their stitch counts suggest, so it helps to make every part first and then assemble in one sitting.

Your Caterpillar’s Next Chapter

You now have everything you need to crochet a hungry caterpillar: a tall red head, six green segments, purple antennae and a row of little brown feet, all joined from head to tail.

When yours is finished, share a photo in the comments. We’d love to see your color choices. And since every hungry caterpillar eventually needs wings, try our free crochet butterfly amigurumi next.